So this is the cobbler. and what a cobbler!
This morning we were in Aguas Calientes and now we are back in ***** Cusco. We are back in the same room and it is good to be somewhere familiar after days of moving about Peru.
After breakfast, which was peruvian magic as usual with sumptuous fruit, we went to the public hot springs where D had been two years ago. Now they charge for the key to the locker ¡20p! and for the use of the baths. In the hottest bath we met Mamma Lima, a lovely large lady who was trying in vain to reduce her double chins and who was kindness itself telling us where the hottest part was, to bury our feet in the sand and giggling girlishly at complements about Peru, the food, the landscape and the people.
Back to the hotel and Margaret will tell you about the orchids!
The hotel we stayed in last night is very eco-friendly: they grow their own tea and coffee and use them in the hotel. They do a lot of preservation too. We went with a guide to see the kinds of things that were growing naturally and have some lovely photos of orchids. It is not the season for orchids so there weren´t as many as we would see later. Gorgeous nevertheless. Our guide, Carmen, was lovely: she said that I didn´t speak Spanish with a foreign accent.
Train and bus and back to Cusco. Having a lazy evening after re-sorting and re-packing our luggage. Don´t know about blogging tomorrow, but we´ll soon be within communication distance. Thanks for reading this, bye bye.
Friday, 3 August 2007
Thursday, 2 August 2007
Day 14
Wow! Today was Machu Picchu - and pictures cannot tell the tale.
First of all though we went back to Ollantaytambo to look again at some of the Inca architecture and to visit a house where the family still live in the Inca way with guinea pigs eating on the floor and the skulls of the ancestors in a sort of shrine. Fascinating!
Narrow gauge rail journey to Aguas Calientes and bus up along hairpin bends and deep gorges to Machu Picchu.
The place really benefits from an informed guide with a love of the place. He explained such a lot we would not have known without hours of study. Best to wait for the pictures and an explanation of the ruins ... and why we left Wanne Picchu untouched.
The hotel is breathtakingly beautiful and we can hardly wait for the orchid tour tomorrow before we head for the hot springs.
Then back to the luxury of the ***** hotel in Cusco for the last night in Peru.
Thanks for the comments Lisa and Jenny.
Take care! See you soon ... unless we get a better offer.
xxxx Us
First of all though we went back to Ollantaytambo to look again at some of the Inca architecture and to visit a house where the family still live in the Inca way with guinea pigs eating on the floor and the skulls of the ancestors in a sort of shrine. Fascinating!
Narrow gauge rail journey to Aguas Calientes and bus up along hairpin bends and deep gorges to Machu Picchu.
The place really benefits from an informed guide with a love of the place. He explained such a lot we would not have known without hours of study. Best to wait for the pictures and an explanation of the ruins ... and why we left Wanne Picchu untouched.
The hotel is breathtakingly beautiful and we can hardly wait for the orchid tour tomorrow before we head for the hot springs.
Then back to the luxury of the ***** hotel in Cusco for the last night in Peru.
Thanks for the comments Lisa and Jenny.
Take care! See you soon ... unless we get a better offer.
xxxx Us
Wednesday, 1 August 2007
Day 13
And ths has to be THE most amazing so far.
We left Cusco at nine and followed the road we had taken yesterday to the sacrifice labyrinth.
Then before the Sacred Valley we visted the royal cleansing site at Tambomachay where I had met Nely .. remember Ma I looked simple in the photo? ... Jose our guide recognised her photo, she is in hospital but we mer her brother and daughter ... gret jubilatons ... bought an incan calendar and they gave ua presents of two scarves. Wait for the photos! And we left with Jacinto saying "Que dios les bendiga" "God bless you."
From there we went to Awana Kancha which is a community of severl families who rear llamas and so on. We were able to feed the nimals, then to see some of the dyeing process. All very thoughtfully set out. Needless to say the visit ended at the shop -beautiful stuff. Quote "Cn we just get to the Sacred Valley and leace Marks & Spencers behind?"
We forgot to tell you hat in our 5* hotel last night, our blanket was trimmed with satin on all four sides!
We checked into our next hotel - wait for the photos!
Lunch: we sat down but the tour director had disappeared. So was here a price limit to what we could order? We all st there wondering BUT we were able to choose whatever we wanted from each of the three courses, and it was wonderful.
The downside was tht after only half an hour we were off again, this time to see the sacred temple at ollantayambo, 500 or so steps up!! But it was worth it - huge granite blocks more than 6 feet high were plced together to collect the correct light from the sun at the solstices and equinoxes, the stones having been carried from one mountain, across a valley and up another hill, a distance of about 4 miles! Boy were the Incas devoted to their gods!
Machu Picchu tomorrow - wow! Going o read e-mails. Have YOU sent anything? x x x x
We left Cusco at nine and followed the road we had taken yesterday to the sacrifice labyrinth.
Then before the Sacred Valley we visted the royal cleansing site at Tambomachay where I had met Nely .. remember Ma I looked simple in the photo? ... Jose our guide recognised her photo, she is in hospital but we mer her brother and daughter ... gret jubilatons ... bought an incan calendar and they gave ua presents of two scarves. Wait for the photos! And we left with Jacinto saying "Que dios les bendiga" "God bless you."
From there we went to Awana Kancha which is a community of severl families who rear llamas and so on. We were able to feed the nimals, then to see some of the dyeing process. All very thoughtfully set out. Needless to say the visit ended at the shop -beautiful stuff. Quote "Cn we just get to the Sacred Valley and leace Marks & Spencers behind?"
We forgot to tell you hat in our 5* hotel last night, our blanket was trimmed with satin on all four sides!
We checked into our next hotel - wait for the photos!
Lunch: we sat down but the tour director had disappeared. So was here a price limit to what we could order? We all st there wondering BUT we were able to choose whatever we wanted from each of the three courses, and it was wonderful.
The downside was tht after only half an hour we were off again, this time to see the sacred temple at ollantayambo, 500 or so steps up!! But it was worth it - huge granite blocks more than 6 feet high were plced together to collect the correct light from the sun at the solstices and equinoxes, the stones having been carried from one mountain, across a valley and up another hill, a distance of about 4 miles! Boy were the Incas devoted to their gods!
Machu Picchu tomorrow - wow! Going o read e-mails. Have YOU sent anything? x x x x
Tuesday, 31 July 2007
Day 12 !!!!!!!!!!!!1
now we forgot to tell you about the guys who kept cleaning the windows in the observation car of the Orient Express, even when they were not dirty AND there was a lassie doing great Spanish dancing.
Last night I had a pisco sour in the hotel, the best!, and the bitters was the in the sign of the hotel!
Today has been my day for showing Margaret round cusco, the navel of the wotld!
We visited the church of Santo Domingo which I had seen earlier when I was looking for camera batteries BEFORE the shops were open but Mass was being said and I heard the Consecration and the Lord{s prayer in Spanish.
We were shown the Inca ruins inside the church and it was explained how their inward leaning construction withstood the great earth quake of 1950 which detsroyed some of the colonial church built over them. Quote, "Have these been restored then?" end quote, no comment!
We went then to the "head of the puma" the fortress built to guard the city and had an amazing view of the Main square and the whole city and airport.
Afterwards was Q'onqo, the place of ritual sacrifice of animals in a kind of subterranean labyrinth. It was VERY cold there, perfect for embalming the sundered hearts.
Lunch was at my favourite "Fallen Angel." Just as good as two years ago ... a huge fillet steak with a sauce of your choice for about seven quid. We were in a patio painted blue with clouds and there were mirror balls reflecting the sun ... a piece of paradise.
Two glasses of peruvian wine lead to a siesta! This was followed by a sauna and jacuzzi in the spa and here we are.
Margaert here ... where are your comments? Last night we did the Herald crossword (quite a thrill after so long), so we are hoping to do the same tonight. Hope yous are all happy and well. x x x
Last night I had a pisco sour in the hotel, the best!, and the bitters was the in the sign of the hotel!
Today has been my day for showing Margaret round cusco, the navel of the wotld!
We visited the church of Santo Domingo which I had seen earlier when I was looking for camera batteries BEFORE the shops were open but Mass was being said and I heard the Consecration and the Lord{s prayer in Spanish.
We were shown the Inca ruins inside the church and it was explained how their inward leaning construction withstood the great earth quake of 1950 which detsroyed some of the colonial church built over them. Quote, "Have these been restored then?" end quote, no comment!
We went then to the "head of the puma" the fortress built to guard the city and had an amazing view of the Main square and the whole city and airport.
Afterwards was Q'onqo, the place of ritual sacrifice of animals in a kind of subterranean labyrinth. It was VERY cold there, perfect for embalming the sundered hearts.
Lunch was at my favourite "Fallen Angel." Just as good as two years ago ... a huge fillet steak with a sauce of your choice for about seven quid. We were in a patio painted blue with clouds and there were mirror balls reflecting the sun ... a piece of paradise.
Two glasses of peruvian wine lead to a siesta! This was followed by a sauna and jacuzzi in the spa and here we are.
Margaert here ... where are your comments? Last night we did the Herald crossword (quite a thrill after so long), so we are hoping to do the same tonight. Hope yous are all happy and well. x x x
Monday, 30 July 2007
Day 11
Whaow!!!!!! each day gets different> just as good but oh so fabulously different and we think our mind cameras are going into overload. Just as well as M has no more batteries for the camera.
We left Puno on the Orient Express run train for Cusco at 8>00 am and it was beyond all expectation. The decor was fantastic and the observation car staight out of the movies.
So much has happened that we will not get things in the right sequence but here goes.
Maybe the first highlight was lunch where we ate so well> Andean salad, carrot and aubergine soup, chicken with pineapple and our favourite lucuma mousse dessert. But the sevice! It was like synchronised swimming! Each waiter of a team of four laying the dishes in perfect timing.
The scenery climbing one thousand metres from Puno to the hight point at Las Rayas at 4,800 and back to Cusco at some 3,000 was like Peru in miniature from the high plain to the mountains and back to the high plains ... from cows to llamas to cows. ... from the plains to snow covered mountains to the high plains.
And you should see our hotel room! check out www.libertador.com.pe and look for the hotel in Cusco. It is luxury personified. There are even fresh flowers in the lav.
To go back to the train... D and I were the only ones who had dressed appropriately poshly for the journey and we were complimented several times on our good taste. But I'll never wear that bra again!!! That's a story for back home.
On the train we had a modelling session of very expensive alpaca wear, of gorgeous silver, of how to make a Pisco sour .. you'll all love it... to some Inca fella doing somethng with incense and Coca leaves.
A very memorable 10 hour experience.
Tomorrow we get a long lie. We have a morning tour of the city, and the afternoon at leisure. Chris and Jenny ... we are going to try the free spa.
See you tomorrow.
We left Puno on the Orient Express run train for Cusco at 8>00 am and it was beyond all expectation. The decor was fantastic and the observation car staight out of the movies.
So much has happened that we will not get things in the right sequence but here goes.
Maybe the first highlight was lunch where we ate so well> Andean salad, carrot and aubergine soup, chicken with pineapple and our favourite lucuma mousse dessert. But the sevice! It was like synchronised swimming! Each waiter of a team of four laying the dishes in perfect timing.
The scenery climbing one thousand metres from Puno to the hight point at Las Rayas at 4,800 and back to Cusco at some 3,000 was like Peru in miniature from the high plain to the mountains and back to the high plains ... from cows to llamas to cows. ... from the plains to snow covered mountains to the high plains.
And you should see our hotel room! check out www.libertador.com.pe and look for the hotel in Cusco. It is luxury personified. There are even fresh flowers in the lav.
To go back to the train... D and I were the only ones who had dressed appropriately poshly for the journey and we were complimented several times on our good taste. But I'll never wear that bra again!!! That's a story for back home.
On the train we had a modelling session of very expensive alpaca wear, of gorgeous silver, of how to make a Pisco sour .. you'll all love it... to some Inca fella doing somethng with incense and Coca leaves.
A very memorable 10 hour experience.
Tomorrow we get a long lie. We have a morning tour of the city, and the afternoon at leisure. Chris and Jenny ... we are going to try the free spa.
See you tomorrow.
Sunday, 29 July 2007
Day 10
Hello again! We have had a great day out on Lake Titicaca and feel fresh and sunny.
Forgot to tell you about the hot water bottles in Colca Canyon. They were very, very welcome.
Our first stop today was on the floating island of the people of Uros. Lovely welcome and magic artefacts. One Granny was not too chuffed at a tiny nick in a 20S note, but we appeased her with a better note.
Olga was a consummate saleswoman.
On to a reedboat catamaran to the next island. The people were wonderful. David bought panpipes with music - he hasn´t started practising yet - you´ve all got that to look forward to!
We then went on a boat to the Island of Tequile where we had to walk up a very steep and windy road almost to the top. It was worth it though! The people sang, danced and played instruments for us. One of the women has taken a video and has promised to send us a copy of the dancing.
We had a glorious meal there: amazing vegetable soup, fish freshly caught in the lake this morning, and mint tea, which was very refereshing.
Our time on the lake was completely unforgettable.
We went to see a boring English-built steam ship, then back to the hotel for a rest.
Forgot to tell you that M was breengin´a bit in the r oom this morning and stubbed her toes. They are a lovely black and blue and are fair stoonin´. But that´s nothing like the pain that the sick folk with us have suffered.
See you tomorrow in Cusco after the Orient Express journey.
Forgot to tell you about the hot water bottles in Colca Canyon. They were very, very welcome.
Our first stop today was on the floating island of the people of Uros. Lovely welcome and magic artefacts. One Granny was not too chuffed at a tiny nick in a 20S note, but we appeased her with a better note.
Olga was a consummate saleswoman.
On to a reedboat catamaran to the next island. The people were wonderful. David bought panpipes with music - he hasn´t started practising yet - you´ve all got that to look forward to!
We then went on a boat to the Island of Tequile where we had to walk up a very steep and windy road almost to the top. It was worth it though! The people sang, danced and played instruments for us. One of the women has taken a video and has promised to send us a copy of the dancing.
We had a glorious meal there: amazing vegetable soup, fish freshly caught in the lake this morning, and mint tea, which was very refereshing.
Our time on the lake was completely unforgettable.
We went to see a boring English-built steam ship, then back to the hotel for a rest.
Forgot to tell you that M was breengin´a bit in the r oom this morning and stubbed her toes. They are a lovely black and blue and are fair stoonin´. But that´s nothing like the pain that the sick folk with us have suffered.
See you tomorrow in Cusco after the Orient Express journey.
Saturday, 28 July 2007
Day 9
Hello again. We have to explain about last night´s rushed blog. In the hotel you had to knock at the computer room door and the wee mannie connected you to reception for your alloted time. When we chapped at the door last night it was our guide Jorge who opened the door and although we tried to explain that we had to contact reception in order to pay, he said just go ahead. So we were a bit feart about getting caught out!
Thanks to all of you who have commented on our blog: Chris, Jenny, Lisa, the Midds (Julie, will you please show ma what to do?) And the rest of you, get commenting.
Correction from last night before David does today,s fabulous story. When I was writing last night about seeing a wolf, David kept saying that he didn´t remember seeing one, and of course I was insistent. But it was a fox!
David has some quotes from yesterday:
"How many more times will I have to get off this bus?"
At the Condor cross, designated by the Peruvians as the best place to view the birdies,"They´ve picked quite a good place to see them!" and so to today:
We left at 08:00 for Puno on lake Titicaca and the poor driver had to stop fairly soon because a channel had flooded and his codriver had to get out and lay stones to help the big Mercedes bus across. There was ice at the side of the road. It is winter!!!!!!!!!!!
We had a stop at Chivay where we photoed the Midgie motor (dustbin lorry) which played rockabye baby in the capital of the Colca canyon. Ten minutes previously we had come on to tarred road, albeit with holes. it was a relief after the stony rocky road to Dublin.
On the way to the high plateau we were told about "chuño" a freezed dried potato of the highlands, a delicacy. The potatoes are frozen in the rivers for 15 days, removed, peeled and left to freezedry on the ground. The process takes a month.
We got to our highest point of the holiday, 4,800 metres above sealevel where we saw the cairns giving offerings to the gods.
Lunch was at the Reserva Aguda Blanca, a packed lunch which was delicious.
We contiued through the high plateau filled with herds of llama, tails up, and alpaca, tails down.
This blog seems to be taking on the kaleidoscopic nature of the day: mountains, plateaux, rivers, birds, people. The pictures and us will explain more! Honest!
We had our first glimpse of the lake shortly before we arrived in Puno where there were celebrations in full flow for independence day. No more Spaniards! Wait till you see the pictures of the costumes!
Off to see the lake before bed and a tour of the floating islands tomorrow!
8:30 start!!
Thanks to all of you who have commented on our blog: Chris, Jenny, Lisa, the Midds (Julie, will you please show ma what to do?) And the rest of you, get commenting.
Correction from last night before David does today,s fabulous story. When I was writing last night about seeing a wolf, David kept saying that he didn´t remember seeing one, and of course I was insistent. But it was a fox!
David has some quotes from yesterday:
"How many more times will I have to get off this bus?"
At the Condor cross, designated by the Peruvians as the best place to view the birdies,"They´ve picked quite a good place to see them!" and so to today:
We left at 08:00 for Puno on lake Titicaca and the poor driver had to stop fairly soon because a channel had flooded and his codriver had to get out and lay stones to help the big Mercedes bus across. There was ice at the side of the road. It is winter!!!!!!!!!!!
We had a stop at Chivay where we photoed the Midgie motor (dustbin lorry) which played rockabye baby in the capital of the Colca canyon. Ten minutes previously we had come on to tarred road, albeit with holes. it was a relief after the stony rocky road to Dublin.
On the way to the high plateau we were told about "chuño" a freezed dried potato of the highlands, a delicacy. The potatoes are frozen in the rivers for 15 days, removed, peeled and left to freezedry on the ground. The process takes a month.
We got to our highest point of the holiday, 4,800 metres above sealevel where we saw the cairns giving offerings to the gods.
Lunch was at the Reserva Aguda Blanca, a packed lunch which was delicious.
We contiued through the high plateau filled with herds of llama, tails up, and alpaca, tails down.
This blog seems to be taking on the kaleidoscopic nature of the day: mountains, plateaux, rivers, birds, people. The pictures and us will explain more! Honest!
We had our first glimpse of the lake shortly before we arrived in Puno where there were celebrations in full flow for independence day. No more Spaniards! Wait till you see the pictures of the costumes!
Off to see the lake before bed and a tour of the floating islands tomorrow!
8:30 start!!
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